Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Challenge thirteen; Under 10$

I was stuck on what to make for this challenge. None of my ideas had much of a spark for me, of course my biggest challenge recently has been finding the time to sew!

In the end I whipped up a re-made blouse to corset cover, plus I can wear it under my regency stays and finally get pictures taken of those as well! I was inspired by the many images available on the internet, so these don't come from a pattern. In fact this corset cover stated out as a thrift store purchased blouse. I used this May Manton pattern as my inspiration:

My blouse had a similar shape to begin with, but I altered it heavily to get the look I was going for. I shortened the straps by 5cm on each side, I also slashed the front and removed three repeats of the eyelet pattern. I then removed the lining and added it between the top and original hem of the blouse. I added five pintucks, spaced 3cm apart, to this piece and added a drawstring at the waist. The tie is made from the hem of the lining piece. I still have a bit of fabric left, the piece that I removed that has three repeats of the eyelet pattern. I may use this to make a bust cover as seen on the upper left in this pattern:

To make something like this French corset cover from the Met.

As is, here is my corset cover worn alone and under regency stays.

The sun came out just as I was taking this set, excuse the odd facial expressions.

I think it turned out pretty well, even if it does look rather awful under my stays!

The Challenge: Under $10

Fabric: Cotton eyelet lawn, in the form of a blouse

Pattern: None

Year: 1912

Notions: Thread

How historically accurate is it? Erm...not very, say 40%

Hours to complete: Two

First worn: Today, for pictures at least!

Total cost: $1.99 at 75% off so... .50!

Friday, July 11, 2014

Challenge twelve; Shape and support

I was going to make an 1880s corset for this challenge, but I could not find my boning anywhere! So instead I made a pair of 1810s regency stays. I started off with Jennie Chancey's Regency Underthings pattern, but I altered them quite a bit.

I used zip ties as boning along the front because cording these areas did not provide enough uplift. I also left out the cording under the bust gussets because again, they did not offer any additional support. I cut down the front and added a channel for a drawstring, these changes make the stays give the correct shape for the period and allow me to adjust the bust. I also altered the shaping of the bust gussets to give more lift and better shaping. The original gussets created a flatter more 1770s silhouette on me, which isn't the desired shape for regency stays.

I hand embroidered the bottoms of the gussets for strength and as decoration. I also hand worked the eyelets.

Currently I'm using satin ribbon as my laces and inside the drawstring channel, I plan to replace this with more accurate cording in the future.

My main fabric is a cotton duck which I lined with a striped quilting cotton that I had on hand and they are bound in bias tape.

I hope to get some modeled pictures up soon!

The Challenge: Shape and support

Fabric: Cotton duck and quilting cotton

Pattern: An altered version of Sense and Sensibilities Regency Underthings Pattern

Year: 1810s

Notions: Thread, embroidery floss, zip ties

How historically accurate is it? Hmmm...zip ties, quilting cotton and bias tape, let's say 50%

Hours to complete: Around five

First worn: Not yet

Total cost: Stash again, free!

Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Challenge ten; Art

I had so many inspirations for this challenge, but the biggest challenge of all was being historically inspired! I love Georgia O'Keeffe's cityscapes, I love the colors and impressionistic shapes of Marcel Duchamp's paintings. Sadly both of these leave me envisioning very modern garments, not historical ones.

I settled for a combination of pieces for my inspiration and made a blouse. I love the neckline shape and the floaty ties on the dress in this painting by Marie Laurencin titled Portrait de Madame Paul Guillaume. The shaded cool colors are also lovely!

My second inspiration piece, which I also love, is shown in two paintings of the same woman, but by two artists; Suzanne Valadon's and Robert Delaunay's identically titled Portrait de Maria Lani.

I like that both art blouses are similar in shade and shape (sleeveless, mauvy pink), for my blouse I used the leftover voile from the Pink challenge dyed to be more mauve, I did not however dye the ties. I cut it out as a wrap blouse from the bodice of a vintage 1940s pattern, but altered the neckline to be more of a curved boatneck and I cut it longer in the hips. I lengthened the wrap ties at the waist. I can wear it as in the first painting with a curved neckline in front or with the wrap in the front as in the Maria Lani portraits. I did not add the collar because I could not wear it like the first picture with a collar. I did try unsuccessfully to add the collar as a facing type piece which could be folded under, but it did not work.

Here it is worn over a blue blouse as in the Maria Lani portraits, it's a bit large, has sleeves and doesn't have the white collar, but it still gives the same impression.

Also a shot with it wrapped in the back. I like this blouse quite a lot because it can be worn in an historical context or in a modern one. I did have one dye related incident in which there was a spot of unmixed dye on the bodice. I used this defect to test a dyeing technique I've been working on. Now it has a darker watercolory area on the right bust (when worn with the wrap in the back) which I quite like.

The Challenge: Art

Fabric: Pink cotton voile

Pattern: A very altered 1940s dress bodice

Year: 1929ish

Notions: Plum and Warm Black procion dye, thread

How historically accurate is it? Fabric and style are spot on, but my pattern is 1940s, so maybe 75%

Hours to complete: Not including the drying time from the dye bath, around two hours

First worn: Not yet

Total cost: Free! All from stash again.